Smells Like Teen Spirit

Niche perfumers in the Middle East are reinventing themselves to find popularity amongst the cool kids. From the global woke consumer to the curious Gen Z, here’s why everyone wants a hint of this : MOJEH Magazine

Words by Priyanka Pradhan
Photography by Vrushali Chaudhary and Nitin Narendran

Bespoke, culturally- aware and ultra- exclusive fragrances are now in the radar of young perfume wearers. Driven by their need for individuality, young trendsetters and early adopters are finding the appeal in regional niche fragrances. Oman-based luxury niche fragrance house, Amouage, one of the most globally popular brands from the region, emphasizes its uniqueness for young perfume wearers. “I think what contributes most to the momentum is the deep desire of young people to be unique. I think we are in an era where self-expression is extremely important. Young people want to be recognised for who they are, people want others to acknowledge that they’re unique and the belief that diversity should be valued and glorified. From this point of view, the niche perfume is a novel way to express this uniqueness,” says Renaud Salmon, chief creative officer of Oman-based Amouage.

Happy to pay for quality products, very particular about personalization and highly concerned about ethical standards, Gen Z seems to be the perfect match for regional niche perfumers. The ideal consumer for such brands is now between the ages of 16 and 35, considerably younger than traditional niche perfume wearer.

Having borrowed from the art and craft of concocting fragrances of ancient Mesopotamia, Egypt and the Indus valley civilization dating back to more than 4000 years, niche perfumers from the Middle East are loud and proud of their roots. Some of the locally sourced ingredients in niche fragrances from the region include rose water, juniper, frankincense, myrrh, frangipani and saffron, that are often customized and layered according to the whims of the perfume wearer. These superior ingredients coupled with sophisticated techniques and high-end technology drive up prices of niche fragrances.

“Oud, although not specifically from the Arabian Peninsula, is highly coveted and valued as it holds religious as well as cultural significance. Musk from Oman has many health benefits for its aroma and can also be chewed like gum! Rose from the Taif region in Saudi Arabia is one of the highest quality of roses found around the world,” says Talha Kalsekar, founder of niche fragrance house, Maison De Noya.

Niche fragrance brands find the young generation to be more open-minded, more accepting of different cultures and appreciative of local traditions. “The use of trendy aesthetics, sustainability efforts, and influencer collaborations are part of our strategy to capture the attention and loyalty of younger perfume wearers in this region,” says Ahmed Alesry, general manager of niche fragrance house, Oman Luxury.

Gender fluidity in niche fragrances is a big draw for a generation that doesn’t like to conform to the norm and prefers to mix things up. “We personally don’t believe in scents linked to gender – it depends on the mood, the moment and perhaps even the location that you are part of. Each scent smells differently on each person and each individual has their own journey with the scent,” says Forat Al Haider, creative director, Ghawali, niche luxury perfume house by Chalhoub group.

However, it takes a lot more than just a sweet- smelling portion to sell perfume to young fragrance wearers today. Storytelling and sustainability are as important as the scent itself. Armed with rich heritage, encyclopaedic knowledge and ethical practices, niche perfumers come up trumps compared to global luxury fragrance houses.

“I think storytelling is crucial because the perception of perfume is an aesthetic – it’s something you not only enjoy through your nose, but through all your senses. The story is also told through all your senses. Fragrance is meant to evoke emotions and the stories leading to those emotions have to be strong. Fragrances are all about emotions!” says Renaud Salmon.

Anecdotal narratives and that personal touch are also all-important to speak to young perfume wearers. Sheikha Hind Bahwan, founder of fragrance house, OJAR, illustrates the beauty of authentic stories behind fragrances. “My passion for fragrances is a cherished inheritance from my mother. She was an artisan of scents, crafting her own perfumes at home. My earliest and most treasured memories involve joining her in this aromatic art, blending different perfumes together. This experimentation with scents blossomed into a deep-seated passion of mine, forging a special bond between my mother and me. It’s a family tradition that I hold dear and continues to be a significant aspect of my life,” she says.

Collaborations with local artists, performers and photographers are helping the brands connect with contemporary culture, in another form of storytelling. “For our limited-edition launch,’ 9PM in Saudi’ perfume, we had an interesting creative process with various talented Saudi artists such as photographer Designless, 3D artist Amr Khaled and a fashion capsule collection with Proud Angels, to celebrate the mood, vibe and atmosphere of Saudi Arabia,” says Forat Al Haider.

Sustainable practices and ethically sourced natural ingredients, recyclable packaging and mindful production cycles are major factors attracting the ‘woke’ global crowd into the fold. Niche perfumers, by default, produce in smaller numbers and are ethical in their approach to perfume making, which makes them ripe for the new-age consumer.

Global niche fragrance house, Creed Perfumes sees a marked difference in the regional niche perfume world, compared to the rest of the globe. “The Middle East market stands out with its unique characteristics, notably a preference for potent fragrances and the significance placed on personal relationships, a departure from markets like Asia, where customers may lean towards less personal engagement.” says Sarah Rotheram, global CEO of Creed Fragrances.

Despite its unique traits, there are some similarities with consumers worldwide, such as priority on premium quality in fragrances and the increasing prominence of standalone boutiques with VIP rooms & customization elements.

Going forward, the growing awareness of niche perfumery from the region, personal engagement and better visibility will cement their place under both, the local and global spotlight. With the help of slick packaging, stronger branding and an authentic connect with the younger generation, niche perfumery in the Middle East is coming up roses.

Breaking the Mould

Driven by her deep yearning for self-discovery and a strong curiosity about her origins, multi-disciplinary artist, Sarah Alabdali, makes her place in Saudi Arabia’s cultural zeitgeist. She tells MOJEH about her artistic journey that regularly challenges convention.

Having spent her formative years in Jeddah, a city packed with multifaceted ideologies that have permeated society since the 1980s, Sarah Alabdali found solace in the language of art. 

Her first artwork used the streets of Mecca as a canvas for expression — a satirical piece that depicted the rapid urbanization of Mecca’s skyline, manifested through street art. This not only established her as one of Saudi Arabia’s first street artists but also one who wasn’t afraid to break the mould by using a medium that could be perceived as taboo. 

“Art became a natural means for me to navigate the complexities and contradictions that I encountered during my upbringing in Jeddah,” she says. “I have practiced this form [graffiti] in my early 20s, when public places made accessible for artists were quite few, very few galleries to say the least. If I had no choice to be seen other than that medium, my form of expression would drastically change has it been in today’s Jeddah and today’s Saudi Arabia where there are many entities supporting art and artists. I see a community of graffiti artists today with amazing skills and aesthetics who are getting big projects and commissions and it makes me happy this form of art is getting recognition and support.”

She continued her master’s degree at the Prince’s School of Traditional arts in London, where she further developed her craft. Consequently, she consulted and taught traditional arts and crafts with Turquoise Mountain Trust and the Commission of Tourism and Antiquities in Saudi Arabia.

“Ever since, my work has become a combination of visual representations of ideas and ideals adding to research which I sometimes practice solely, and other times include in my art. Traditional schools of painting such as Mughal, Persian and Indian can be traced in my paintings,” she adds. 

Her Saudi heritage informs her work in many ways and exploring historical narratives is an integral aspect of her art. She recently showcased her installation at the Islamic Arts Biennale in Jeddah, which served as a profound connection to her ancestral heritage — a curated collection of tombstones from Makkah. Through meticulous study, she uncovered details about lineage, significant life events, and the political context in which they existed. 

“During this exploration, I focused on the tombstones of two individuals from my direct lineage. This deep dive into their stories brought me closer to grappling with questions of identity. The experience provoked a heightened sense of introspection, as I contemplated the intricate threads that connect me to my ancestors and how their lives continue to shape my own understanding of self”, she says, hailing this commission as her most memorable experience as an artist. 

She will also be displaying her painting, ‘Forest’, at the Abu Dhabi Art Fair [22-26 November 2023]. 

“Measuring 1m x 1m, this artwork is a testament to the harmonious fusion of miniature techniques and contemporary artistic expression. What sets it apart is not only its scale but also the meticulous craftsmanship that went into its creation, taking over two months to complete,” she says. 

A significant aspect of this painting is the collective effort behind it. As part of her commitment to foster a community of female painters, she initiated a training program where women are taught the intricacies of fine painting techniques. ‘Forest’ represents the first collaborative result of this endeavour. Drawing inspiration from traditional painting ateliers, where artists worked within a collective perspective, this piece embodies the collective spirit rather than an individualistic process.

“It is my first painting on this scale. The paper is painted with layers of handmade ultramarine pigment, then carefully filled with freestyle spirals which are completed to fill the whole paper, creating what feels like an intricate forest. When the painting completes, I puncture bits of the paper and attach a layer of gold behind each tear,” she says. 

From street art to installations to paintings, Sarah Alabdali effortlessly navigates various mediums, in her effort to convey her message. 

“Whenever I’m too comfortable creating work, I feel the urge to disrupt the comfort and try something new. This element is essential in my work, and many artists do share the same feeling, the urge to keep learning, experimenting, and indulging in new worlds of expression, she says. 

“Graffiti was a pretty accidental medium, my motive back then was driven from its high accessibility, and that it reaches out to everyone in the street. My main medium would be painting as I mainly like to describe myself as a painter, but I like to experiment with many mediums and art forms. And I also have a very keen interest in bridging research with my art practice,” she adds. 

Her artistic journey revolves around exploring the complexities of identity, grappling with paradoxes, and offering reflections on the contemporary world through the lens of traditional Islamic and Arab culture. She is particularly drawn to the region of Hijaz and its rich material culture, which she believes has been largely overlooked in terms of academic research and attention.

As a female Saudi artist, Sarah Alabdali is an example of how the country’s commitment to the arts is encouraging local artists to explore and grow.

“I have been supported for being a female artist, I don’t believe any of the obstacles I have faced had to do anything with my gender,” she says. “There has been fundamental change since the day I started graffiti up until now. Now, there is a place for professional artists in the scene, whereas in the past it was difficult to introduce yourself into society as an artist, where art was considered a hobby, and often comes as a sign of privilege. Artists now have access to galleries, public spaces and opportunities, and many governmental institutions which have been putting great weight into shifting the cultural and art scene in the kingdom and the Arab and Islamic world.”

Art in Saudi Arabia appears to be emerging as a powerful force for pushing boundaries and is rapidly establishing itself as a prominent frontrunner in the regional and even international art scene. In this climate, artists such as Sarah Alabdali are looking for different ways to create.

“I’m excited about exhibiting my latest piece at Abu Dhabi Art with Hafez gallery, among many other projects I’m working on in the studio which will be shared in their due time. I’m also launching a commercial line of fine art prints and home products quite soon.”

Not one to conform to a singular medium or even a particular art form, Sarah Alabdali believes in the transformative power of art.

“Art speaks volumes, specifically when there’s so much to tell. It challenges people and their perceptions about certain ideals and has the power to smoothly break taboos and discuss them out loud,” she says.

Sarah Alabdali will be exhibiting at the Abu Dhabi Art Fair [22-26 November 2023]. 

New Beginnings

Original, eclectic and balanced, Jude Benhalim’s home in Cairo mirrors her artistic expression in jewellery design. Her new apartment exudes the same energy and affable charm she brings to the table.

On a warm autumn day in Cairo, jewellery designer Jude Benhalim invites us into her sunlit apartment, in one of the city’s trendiest neighbourhoods, New Cairo.

Her work, as seen on celebrities such as Kendall Jenner, Chrissy Teigen and Adriana Lima, is inspired by the architecture of the city she was raised in. Her new home shows similar influences, drawn from art and design.

“Growing up here, with the city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and splendid architecture has shaped my artistic perspective and offered inspiration. In my work, you can see the echoes of Cairo’s ancient beauty and cultural diversity. The city’s bustling markets, ornate mosques, and majestic Nile River all find expression in my designs. I often draw inspiration from traditional Middle Eastern jewellery-making techniques, such as filigree, enamelling, and intricate metalwork, infusing them with a contemporary twist. Likewise, my home reflects the essence of Cairo. The interior design embraces the city’s eclectic blend of old and new, combining traditional elements with modern aesthetics,” says Jude.

Filled with natural light and bright accents, her three- bedroom apartment is flushed with colour. Natural elements, organic textures and materials such as wood and stone form a common thread that weaves seamlessly throughout the space.

“I would describe it as a blend of modern and eclectic elements. I believe that one’s home should reflect their personality, so I’ve incorporated pieces that resonate with me on a personal level. Aspects of my personality that are reflected in my home include a love for vibrant colours, a passion for local art and culture, and a desire for a space that feels warm, inviting, and inspiring,” she says.

“I also incorporate elements of global inspiration, such as statement art pieces, textiles, and decorative objects. These elements hope to come together in a harmonious and visually engaging environment for me,” she adds.

Having founded her eponymous brand as a teenager, Benhalim has come to realize the value of perseverance, resilience and balance in work and life. Being raised in an environment that valued creativity and craftsmanship further encouraged her to push her boundaries and come into her own. 

“Throughout my childhood, I was surrounded by artistic influences and encouraged to explore my own artistic expression. My mother worked in fashion and my father is an architect — this explains why my designs feature both, contemporary and fashionable aesthetics,” she says. 

Today, this principle of creativity and balance spills into the spaces in her home. She focuses on elements such as craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the ability to tell a story. 

“Just like in jewellery design, I believe that each piece in a home should have a purpose and evoke emotion. I seek inspiration from textures, forms, and materials found in jewellery-making and translate those into the design choices for my home interiors. This approach ensures that both my jewellery designs and my home reflect a consistent artistic vision,” she says.

When selecting design interiors for her home, she prefers materials and textures that offer a sense of tactile richness and visual depth. 

“For example, I might incorporate velvet upholstery that adds a luxurious touch, or curated art on the wall that create visual interest. Combining different materials and textures allows me to create a multi-dimensional and visually engaging environment. Ultimately, I aim to strike a balance between comfort, functionality, and aesthetic appeal.”

When working from home, Benhalim saw the need to create spaces and nooks that inspire her to create. 

“One such space is my lounge area which is designed to inspire creativity and foster focus. The curated art on the walls, the presence of natural light, and the overall ambiance of the space all contribute to a productive work environment. Additionally, I find that the serene atmosphere of my balcony or a cosy reading nook also inspires me during work-from-home days, as they provide a change of scenery and promote a sense of tranquillity, she says. 

The tranquillity of her home extends outdoors onto her balcony and private terrace.

“For the balcony, I plan to incorporate lush greenery, and soft lighting to create a serene oasis amidst the bustling neighbourhood. I will use natural materials like wood and rattan to add warmth and texture, while also incorporating Middle Eastern-inspired decorative elements such as intricate metalwork. As for the private terrace, I see it as a versatile space that can be used for relaxation, entertaining guests, and even as a source of inspiration for my design work. I intend to create a lounging area and perhaps a small dining area. I will use plants, flowers, and natural elements to bring a sense of serenity and beauty to the space,” she says.

However, it’s not just about visual appeal. Jude is just as astute about functionality and purpose.

“Design and aesthetics are important to me but I also give equal weightage to practicality. I strive to strike a balance between creating a visually appealing space and ensuring it is functional and well-suited to my lifestyle. The overall design should enhance daily living while reflecting my personal style and preferences”, she says.  Her home is a sanctuary for her —a place of safety, security, and belonging. This is where she returns to unwind, recharge and find solace amidst the demands of work and everyday life.

“It’s a place where I can surround myself with cherished possessions, sentimental objects, and elements that bring me joy, creating a true haven that resonates with my soul,” she says.